Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Keeping Tajiks Baffled, One Day at a Time

Anya and I went to the neighborhood open market on Sunday, before Dan got home from Kathmandu (via Delhi and Almaty), to get him some pickled mushroom salad. We sidled up to the sellers who deal in things marinated -- there is a little row of them, a few Tajiks who are off to the side (one a brother and sister pair, as far as I can tell, with the brother speaking only Tajik and the sister who can speak Russian), and then the three middle-aged ladies: one Tajik, one by all appearances Russian (but seems to jabber away in Tajik, so maybe the child of a mixed marriage?), one Korean.

The ladies were clearly talking about us and laughing good-naturedly, but too quickly in Tajik for me to really tell what they were saying. Then, when I heard "pampers," I remembered what they were chuckling about. I acknowledged it, and we all laughed together, and they switched into Russian for more commentary.

Anya had made sure that Bear was wearing a diaper for our outing (although ironically she herself opted for undies). The ladies thought that was pretty hilarious. And, honestly, it kind of was.

Tuesday we garnered stares and chuckles from the schoolkids on the avenue, too, as we pushed Bear along the street in the stroller. I guess being in a place where I so obviously do not blend in, together with a toddler -- who, even if you are able to pass, pretty much at any moment can blow your cover by blurting out a foreign word -- has all just made me relax into my role as crazy foreigner here in Tajikistan.

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Meanwhile, in other news:

Today I drove on the streets of Dushanbe -- taking Anya to sadik -- for the first time ever. Our car was finally issued license plates, and we are now toodling around town in "Our Car," as Anya calls it. Pretty amazing that it is now in our possession and driveable -- we have been here so long already without our own wheels that we've gotten used to getting around without it, but we are so glad to have the convenience now.

And, in something pretty much unrelated to the Dushanblog, I will be doing a couple of guest posts for a friend's blog devoted to global health issues this month -- who knew? Check out the Other March Madness here.